July Grows the Meal

 Everything on this tray came out of the ground this morning. Scallions, washed and laid out on parchment. New potatoes, skins still thin enough to rub off. The first real tomatoes of the season.

Supper this time of year is barely cooking. Boil the potatoes. Char the scallions under the broiler until the edges blister. Slice the tomatoes thick and salt them. Good oil over all of it.

July grows the meal. We just carry it in.

Recipe below.

• 1.5 pounds new potatoes, scrubbed
• 2 bunches scallions, trimmed and washed
• 3 ripe tomatoes
• 3 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for finishing
• 1 teaspoons flaky salt, plus more for the potatoes' cooking water
• 0.5 teaspoons black pepper, coarsely ground
• 2 teaspoons red wine vinegar (optional)

Steps

Boil the potatoes: Put 1.5 pounds new potatoes, scrubbed in a pot, cover with cold water, and salt it well. Bring to a boil and cook until a knife slides in easily, 15–20 minutes . Drain and halve the larger ones.

 Char the scallions: Heat the broiler. Toss 2 bunches scallions, trimmed and washed on a parchment-lined sheet pan with 3 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for finishing, a pinch of salt. Broil until the tops blister and char at the edges, 4–5 minutes . They should be soft at the white end, crisp at the green.

 Slice the tomatoes: Slice 3 ripe tomatoes thick. Lay them on a platter and scatter with some of 1teaspoons flaky salt, plus more for the potatoes' cooking water. Let them sit while everything else finishes — the salt draws out the juice.

 Bring it together: Pile the warm potatoes onto the platter with the tomatoes. Lay the charred scallions over the top. Finish with more olive oil, the rest of 1 teaspoons flaky salt, plus more for the potatoes' cooking water, 0.5 teaspoons black pepper, coarsely ground, and 2 teaspoons red wine vinegar (optional) if using. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Notes

If the grill is already going, the scallions are even better over a hot fire — same timing, turn once. Day-old leftovers, chopped rough with a spoonful of mayonnaise, make a good potato salad.

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